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 Hangboards are useful for building finger strength when bouldering or rock climbing. Hangboards usually refer to the full-sized hangboard, which is typically mounted on a frame or wall. Learn more about Hangboard training.


Hangboards

When should I start using a hangboard?

Most climbers begin hangboarding when they feel a plateu in progression or if a finger-related injury occurs. This could be anywhere between 12-24 months if you've been climbing regularly and want to progress your finger strength. Some climbers will invest in portable hangboards (fingerboards) sooner than this time frame as a warm up tool at the crag or for finger rehab. Read our Hangboard training article to learn more about if hangboarding is for you.

What are the best hangboards for climbers new to training?

Hangboards for those starting their training journey should have large, comfortable holds with a good amount of edge size variety for the routine. Many climbers purchase Beastmaker 1000, Metolius Wood Grip, or Metolius Project as a starting hangboard because they're not overly complex, feature a good set of sizes for simple routines, and are compact enough to mount above a doorway. 

What's the difference between a wood hangboard and a resin hangboard?

Wood hangboards are nicer on the skin, especially if you plan on doing hangboard training in addition to climbing a few times every week. However, they can only be mounted inside or where they won't get exposed to outside weather conditions which will cause the board to deteriorate. On the other hand, resin hangboards resemble the texture of climbing holds more accurately, are more durable against wear, and can be mounted outside.

What other options are there for finger strength training?

There’s more to building finger strength than just hangboards. You’ll find a range of finger strength tools that provide additional benefits, such as campus rungs (lock off strength), grip trainers (antagonist / prehab training), and pinch blocks (pinch strength) and other training tools to specialise your workouts. Tools like lifting pins and dynamometers can help you track and progress your training safely.

Remember, you don’t need a full gym setup to get stronger. With a smart mix of finger strength tools, general strength conditioning, and recovery, you’ll see real progress even from home or while travelling.

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