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A great book to get started on training
Chapter 1: YES, YOU CAN CLIMB 5.12
Getting "On Route" To 5.12, Distinguishing Good Advice from Bad Advice , The Nine Absolute Truths of Climbing Performance, Evaluating Your Current Performance, Self-Assessment Test
Chapter 2: HONING YOUR SKILLS--FAST!
The Optimal Amount of Climb Time, Practice Days vs. Performance Days, Learning New Skills, Blocked Practice of Difficult Moves, Variable Practice of Skills, Skill Guidance Methods, Self-Awareness of Performancem, Modeling Advanced Climbers, Developing a Broad Repertoire of Skills, On-Sight Practice Payoffs, The Synergy of Mental and Physical Practice, Speed Training of Skills, Down-Climbing Routes, Fatigued Skill Practice, Random Skill Practice, Feedback and Video Analysis
Chapter 3: WELCOME TO CONDITIONING
Basic Training Program: Optimizing Body Composition, Flexibility Training, Strength Training 101, Supplemental Strength Training Exercises
Advanced Training Program: Sport-Specific Strength Training, The "4-3-2-1 Training Cycle", Phase #1: Four Weeks of Endurance Training, Phase #2: Three Weeks of Maximum Strength Training, Phase #3: Two Weeks of Anaerobic-Endurance Training, Phase #4: One Week of Rest & Recovery
Preventing Injury and Speeding Recovery: Supplemental Training for Muscle Balance, Rest and Recovery From Workouts, Nutrition to Speed Recovery, Sleep and Grow Strong
Chapter 4: WINNING THE HEAD GAME
Motivation Multiplies Talent, Goals That Compel Action, Discipline Leads To Excellence, Cranking Up Confidence, Visualization--Pre-Programming the Future, Developing Pre-Climb Rituals, Reasonable Fears vs. Unreasonable Fears, Turning Down the Pressure, Focus--The Mind's Hold on the Rock, Maintaining Control and Poise, Self-Talk Yourself To Success
Chapter 5: CLIMBING YOUR FIRST 5.12 (& BEYOND!)
Selecting the Right Route for Redpoint or On-sight, On-Sight Climbing, Working a Project, Redpointing Your Project, Tricks For Tough Climbs
Chapter 6: FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What it Takes to Climb 5.12,Optimal Climbing and Rest Schedule, The Effects of Indoor Climbing on Real Rock Performance, Fingerboard Training Tips, Vitamin Supplements for Climbers, Nutritional Tips to Enhance Performance and Speed Recovery, The Importance of "Downtime" and the "Reminiscence Effect", Treatment of the Common Finger Tendon "A2 Pulley" Injury, Building an Affordable Home Training Wall, The Truth About Campus Training, Lowering Injury Risk, Spreading Your Mental Wings for Peak Performance
APPENDIX A: Hypergravity Isolation Training (The HIT Workout)
APPENDIX B: Pyramid Charts to Plot Your Improvement
APPENDIX C: Fitness Evaluation and Questionnaire