The gang from the central coast have been visiting eagle rock for years and slowely developing it scenic and varied climbing. They have put up many iconic routes including Sea Monkey 23, Squeeze the Squid 26, and Daddy Cool Crack 27, but have always had their eye on a horizontal crack running through ‘the crack house’. Jman had been working this route with increased vigour over the past few months after JC (A New Zealander ring in now living in the blueys :)) had shown the route some attention. JC’s efforts were reward with his Ascent of ‘licking Wounds’ on thursday at a grade of 30. This route is surely one of the hardest trad routes in NSW and is a mighty Effort. Congratulatons JC!

Here is the Low down directly from Jason:

“On Friday J.C. Got the FFA of Licking Wounds 29/30.

Conditions started out terrible slippery and we were both falling off the starting moves. Then the wind picked up J.C. had a quick Power Nap. Then got up a sent the sawring unclimbed 15m Roof crack.

It was day 2, J. C and I camped out there over night. The rest of the crew had left the previous day after sending Squeeze the Suid 26/27. Justin Jefferson 3rd ascent, Richy Sonnerdale 4th ascent. After J. C. Attained the 2nd ascent of Squeeze the Squid he progressively moved onto another inspiring line. A Unique splitter roof crack. We had been trying the crack for quite a while now 5/6 months of going shot for shot. We would often Rock Paper or Scissor for the first lead and putting the gear into the crack.

Anthony Alexander and myself had been playing on it since 2000. We throw ourselves at it and always came back bruised and bleeding. Hense the named Licking Wounds. We both let this unclimbed line slide until we more skilled for tougher challengers.

After disperseing the Daddy Cool Crack 27 I thought it was time start working on the line of lines. And rounded up a posse to start working this stella line again.

Section by section the moves came together. Each of us finding new sequences and feedingof each others energy and enthusiasm for pain.

And there is still a 1m section of the roof climb that I can not free.
J. C. is the only person I have seen do the moves about 1 month ago. Since then its been a matter of trying to link the moves together.

The 1st crux is a technical thin seems on 45 deg angle. Shallow fingers to a half discent rest. 2nd crux move consists of small rail pinch on a horizontal roof. Foot holds a small 10 cent sized pebbles. From the pinch he throws for a 3 finger 1st pad size crimp. Locks his left arm on this then throws into a bad hand jam. Struggling to keep feet on then shoots for the next hand jam. On the send J. C. only manage to stick the 2nd jam before the 1st slipped out leaving J. C. hanging by 1 arm in a dubious jam. Quickly regaining his feet and placeing his right hand back into the start of the good part of the crack. The next few metres of climbing were the slowest I had ever seen him climb it. Not wanting to slipp out. He moved feet first towards the head wall. Spun around to pull up on a fair left hand jam to a not so good finger lock on the head wall. Then he brought both knees onto the wall. With his feet dangling down. He looked like he was on a invisible toilet seat. It was really surreal.

For years we had been waiting for somone to climb this beautiful looking line and there I was on Belay looking at a pair of feet dangling just below the lip. ” Don’t fall of now J. C. Keep it together man.” Was my supportive bewildered war cry.

As always the Kiwi always keeps himself composed. And bringing his feet onto the head wall clipping the doggey cam on the way past. Moving out of site he gets closer to making history and topping out to saftey. But with all crack climbing one problem is that the rope can get caught in the crack and get stuck as it did on this occasion. Keeping it together J. C. feeling comfortable enough unties the rope from himself and solos the last little bit to the top. Calling on the estatic belayer to bring a rope arround so he could retreeve and clean the gear from the crack so he can have a go a placing the gear on lead. Now thats pure ethics.

In my oppion that was the first free ascent. The rope was not used in any way to assist the climber to get up the rock. Haveing the trad gear preplaced is simular to sport climbing but lacks the ground up approach use by mountaineering hard man. It was a memorable day that Im still trying to fit into my reality. Wow! It went free. Gee. It only needed some strong short arss light Kiwi with the right minerals and persistance to brake the code and find a way. Im still trying to figure out a tall mans sequence. Its not always benifitial being taller in the world of rock climbing. I may just have to suck it up and pull the short mans sequence and deal with my Knees around my ear lobes.

I hope this gives you a little run down dude,

Cheers.
Jason Piper”

Wanna see some pics? check out this set from JJ on Flickr.