It had been about 3 months since id been out climbing properly due to lack of motivation caused by the summer humidity and the rainfall we have had in Sydney for the last three months. Anyhow I finally got back out on the Easter weekend and started the slow haul back to some form of climbing fitness.
After initially planning on climbing at Mt Alexandra we (KP, my two eldest boys Stew and Jake and me) changed our plans in the persistent drizzle and headed to Nowra. We decided we would check out the Lair as it had a lot of moderate climbs that would help get some mileage up. At the crag we met up with Bundy and Teacher who, with plastic man, had gathered a big clan of merry crankers for a day ‘on the tick’.
The lair is situated past HMAS Albatross and has about 40 routes from grade 10 to 24 at present. The best quality routes lie in the 21-24 bracket and are situated around the members area wall. The crag was originally develop by a group of people including the guide book editor Gavin Lyon. After the crag was made public in 2005 Graham Hill found his way there and quickly put up a swag of routes on the oddly overlooked right side of the members area.
We warmed up on Bingo Wings 18and Beat the Drum 17which were both pleasant slightly slabby routes on Berlin Wall. KP decided that Graham Hills sandbagging days were over and jumped on his route 6” Release 21 also on Berlin Wall. After navigating through a powerful start sequence he thought he had it in the bag. Unfortunately a single crystal on the final slab was to much for this cranker and he had to beat a hasty retreat. Graham Hills reputation remains intact.
The next routes we climbed were Bakery Treat 21 and its later day neighbour Graba Granny 21. Both these routes offer great climbing on the main wall of the members area with the later requiring me to have a second shot after an unconvincing flash attempt.
Bundy on the start of Cheeky Possum 21 with the members area wall continuing in the back ground. Photo©: Shaun Martin
With the day rapidly slipping away KP decided that the proudest section of the cliff was worthy of his attention and jumped on Kill it and Grill it 22!!. This route requires a batman start then climbs up into a scoop feature before undergoing a decent run out and up a punchy headwall. The initial moves into the scoop are awesome and the scoop itself is fairly punchy. This feisty 22 took KP 3 shots and I had to resign myself to dogging it. It seems Graham Hill got the better of us again but it’s a great route.
By this time Jake and Stew were both hungry and Tired and very vocal about both so we packed our gear and took off. Wasn’t a big day by any means but a worthwhile one. It looks like ive got a fair bit of work to do if im going to be able to tick any of the projects i bolted last year!
Id recommend the Lair to anyone wanting a day away from the regular Nowra crags as the place has a number of routes that are really worthwhile.
Get the Lair Guide from the ACA website HERE