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Belay Device Gear Guide

As always please contact us if you have specific questions. This page is a quick overview of belay devices with a basic comparison table for a quick reference.

Device Type

There are three main types of devices:

  • Tube Style 
  • Auto-locking (also called assisted belay devices or self-locking)
  • Auto-blocking (also called guide's style)

Which style you use depends on which application you are using it for.

Tube Style
Tube Style belay devices are handy and well priced for traditional belaying and abseiling. This is the type of device you get when you first start climbing and will probably hold onto forever.

Auto Blocking
These devices are particularly useful when belaying on a multipitch climb. By using one you can belay directly off the anchor, thus saving energy. You can tell a Auto Blocking device by its additional, full–strength, clip-in point. 

These devices are great because
1. Belaying off the anchor is less effort than off your waist.
2. You can escape the belay (you've already escaped when setting it up).
3. Works great for lead, following or rappelling; they are very versatile.

it can be difficult to release the load in autoblock mode if the second climber falls and can't reach the rock or is injured. Familiarise yourself with the release process of the device you choose before you have to do it on a climb!

Auto Locking
These devices only work with a single rope of a specified diameter. They are ideal for situations where you are either belaying for a long time (big walls) or are going to have a climber who is hanging a lot on the rope (gym, sports climbs, dogging). These devices are generally heavier than the other devices. Because they only work with a single rope, you need to also bring a tube style or auto-blocking device if you want to abseil two ropes.

Rope Diameter

this indicates what size rope the device will work with. Check to make sure the rope you will be using (often your partners) fits in this range. Some work better for thin or fat ropes.

Number of Ropes

Some devices are only useable with 1 rope, others can be used with 2. 

Comparison Chart

Sorted by Device type, then weight


Manufacturer

Name

Pic

Type

Rope Diameter

# of ropes

Weight

Petzl

Reverso 4

Auto Blocking

7.5-11mm

2

59

Kong

Ghost

Auto Blocking

7.5-10.5mm

2

70

Black Diamond

ATC GUIDE

Auto Blocking

7.7-11mm

2

88

Edelrid

Kilojul

 

Auto Blocking

7.8-10.5mm

2

90

Climbing Technology

Click Up

Auto Locking

9-10.5mm

1

115

Petzl

Gri Gri 2

Auto Locking

8.9-11mm

1

185

 Faders

Sum

Auto Locking

9.1-10.5mm

1

260

Edelrid Eddy

 

Auto Locking

9-11mm

1

380

Petzl

Verso

Tube Style

7.5-11mm

2

57

Black Diamond ATC XP

Tube Style 7.7-11mm 2 64

Black Diamond

ATC

Tube Style

7.7-11mm

2

75

Edelrid

Lotse

 

Tube Style

 8-11mm

2

80

Metolius

BRD

Tube Style

8-11mm

2

82

Petzl

Uni Verso

Tube Style

7.5-11mm

2

120

Climbing Technology

Stitch Plate


Tube Style

 

2